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 > First time buyer looking for a late 80's Class A

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fastbacker

california

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Posted: 07/02/09 06:38pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In my area I could get a nice early 90's 32'(+/-) class A gas powered mh with two roof ac's and a 6.5kw generator for around $10k - due to the depressed economy.

Does anyone know what I'd need to spend on a gas or dp class A to tow my 6-7k# trailer. I'm looking to spend as little as possible to get something that doesn't need work and will get the job done.

Thanks all!

fastbacker

california

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Posted: 07/02/09 06:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

----

topflite51

In The Desert of Nevada

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Good Sam RV Club


Posted: 07/02/09 07:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fastbacker wrote:


Does anyone know what I'd need to spend on a gas or dp class A to tow my 6-7k# trailer. I'm looking to spend as little as possible to get something that doesn't need work and will get the job done.

Thanks all!
Gasser's were and are not designed to pull that much. Plain and simple. DP's on the otherhand are. Can you buy one for 10K or under that doesn't require another 10K? GOOD LUCK!


David
Just rolling along enjoying life
w/F53 Southwind towing 87 Samurai looking to golf or fish
Simply Despicable

50pascals

rochester, ny

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Posted: 07/02/09 09:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fastbacker wrote:

Does anyone know what I'd need to spend on a gas or dp class A to tow my 6-7k# trailer. I'm looking to spend as little as possible to get something that doesn't need work and will get the job done.

Thanks all!


The local steel fabrication shop has built tubular steel trusses to support the back end of at least one RV. We'll be doing mine soon, but not for tongue weight, because my extensions have drooped about 1/4".

Basically it is a V shaped truss, with a third leg in the middle of the V. From the drivers side. The vertical leg attaches to the rear of the factory frame rails. The front of the V attaches as far forward as possible, and the rear of the V attaches to the existing (or new) trailer hitch. It is all very heavy duty welded together. They are professionals.

Now, many people will say this won't work and is unsafe - but I think it's better than the people I see towing the loads you want to tow on tin frame rail extensions.

You also need to look at rear axle, springs, brakes, and transmission.

I think the tongue weight is the least of your worries.

fastbacker

california

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Posted: 07/02/09 09:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I could also get the trailer (with car) weight down to 5500 pounds and then load the rest of gear (which I could get down into the 500-1000# range) in the motorhome.

That way, I'm pulling 5500 pounds which I'm sure is doable with a rig rated for 5000 pounds - especially with a little reinforcing of the frame.

So, I guess my next question is this:

Can an early 90's class A rig (rated to pull 5000 pounds) pull 5500 pounds loaded with 1000 pounds worth of gear and people - and not be a dog?

Thanks all again!

vosks

Washington

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Posted: 07/02/09 10:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

With that much cargo you'll probably overload the axles and tires. Most gassers are close to, if not overloaded straight from the factory before we fill them up with essentials. If you are out test driving and want to know what it weighs, I've found that most landscape supply places will let you run it across their scales for free. If you stop half way on the scale you can get the weight for each axle.

There are things you could do to help offset the extra weight, such as only traveling with a half tank of gas and nearly empty water supply.

Keep in mind that each of the optional chassis had different load ratings. In my case, the Chevy was the lightest duty, Ford in the middle, and Oshkosh the heaviest. All were available from Fleetwood when my Pace Arrow was made.

If you do plan to tow a heavy load you should try to find a coach with a Gear Vendors overdrive/gear splitter or add one after purchase. I have one in mine and it makes a huge difference when towing. I have also had my frame extensions reinforced.

Cooling will be a priority. Plan on spending some cash on a new radiator and clutch fan if they haven't been replaced recently.


1990 Pace Arrow
502 GM Crate Motor
Gear Vendors
Stan's Headers, 3" mandrel bent exhaust and Magnaflows


Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 07/02/09 11:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Craig what one should do and one can do are not always the same.

How much is the car you plan to trailer going to cost in total?

fastbacker

california

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Posted: 07/03/09 12:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gale Hawkins wrote:



How much is the car you plan to trailer going to cost in total?


Did you mean how much the car is going to weigh in total?

If so, the car weighs just over 2k#. I currently tow it on a 1500# open trailer with a 1990 one ton (454) gmc van. I'm looking to get an enclosed trailer that will probably weigh around 3500#.

fastbacker

california

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Posted: 07/07/09 03:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After giving this all some thought, I guess I'm going to keep my open trailer which means I'll only be pulling about 3500 pounds. I could probably keep my on board gear down to 500ish pounds.

Could a 1983 27' class A Pace Arrow with a fresh 454 pull it with out straining too much?


Thanks-
Craig

J-Rooster

Port Orchard, Wa. U.S.A.

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Posted: 07/07/09 03:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Craig, on rvsearch.com I found 24 Class A coaches in your price range. The close's ones were 3 in Colo. and 1 in Washington State. Happy hunting, Rooster

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