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willise

Canada

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Posted: 07/03/09 07:16am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just purchased a 2006 GMC Sierra SLE Nevada Edition to tow my Jayco 254 trailer. The truck is the crew cab, short box version.

I have been reading on the trouble with the GM OEM hitches. I looked at mine, and it is the round, tubular type hitch. Should I be worried about this? There doesn't seem to be a great deal of rust around the area where it attaches to the truck frame (normal wear and tear I guess). The trailer weighs less than 5300# fully loaded with a 800# TW. I will be using the dual cam WD system as well.

Thanks!

ddreisbach

Kemah, TX

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Posted: 07/03/09 07:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2006 Tahoe with the same hitch and a similar TT. I don't worry about it. I believe the problems were several years prior and involved much heavier trailers. However, I thoroughly inspect it, the WDH and the TT components annually.

msjdbman

SW Michigan

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Posted: 07/03/09 08:09am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Unless you`re going to tow a HEAVY trailer, you should be fine. My 05 Sierra factory hitch performed perfectly with far heavier loads than what you have referred to.


2008 Duramax/Allison LT2 Crew cab Standard Box. Hellwig Air Assist.
1996 Terry 27 5J

HuckleberryHunter

Issaquah, WA

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Posted: 07/03/09 08:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an '03 with OEM hitch and a 5500 (loaded) trailer. It's holding up well.

Road Ruler

Canada

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Posted: 07/03/09 09:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The GM factory receiver is a joke. Even if it looks fine it will bend and flex. Replace or reinforce it ASAP.


Airstreams.... the best towing trailers on the planet!


BenK

SF BayArea

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Posted: 07/03/09 10:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you haven't, do a search here and you will find tons of threads on
this. Most don't have any problems, but the problems have 'mostly' been
with those towing 'heavy'. One guy with a popup had a crack. Small
in comparison to the total out there. Your trailer is border line heavy...

Look at your receiver before, during and after setting up the tension
on your WD hitch system. Better if you can measure it.

The amount of receiver 'bend' is critical to the performance, both
statically and dynamically, of the receiver.

Suggest you consider changing out the OEM receiver that has a 'U'
bracket between the pin box and the bumper. Replace with a traditional
design receiver, which is around $150 bucks and about 1-2 hours labor
to remove and install the new one.

Look at the sticky Ron wrote, but my short explaination is to think
of sticking a 5'-6' long bar into the receiver. Stand on the trailer
tongue while lifting on that bar.

Some of the weight goes back onto the trailer tongue. Some of that
weight is then put back on the ball. Some of the weight will be
lifted off of the trucks rear axle. Some of the weight is then
transfered or 'distributed' to the trucks front axle.

Key is to put 'back' enough weight onto the trucks front axle so
it will be back at the 'normal' steering setup (toe, caster, camber, etc)
and traction for steering and braking.


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Bob/Olallawa

East

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Posted: 07/03/09 11:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My trailer is heavier than yours but my 07 Chevy PU (Classic) hitch was replaced once under warranty and I just replaced it again with a heavy duty Reese. Neither factory hitch tore or cracked, they just twisted the pin box up toward the bumper and stayed that way. Tilted so far up, it did away with any weight transfer. With both hitches laying on the driveway it was easy to see why the factory hitch did not hold up.

Road Ruler

Canada

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Posted: 07/03/09 11:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bob/Olallawa wrote:

My trailer is heavier than yours but my 07 Chevy PU (Classic) hitch was replaced once under warranty and I just replaced it again with a heavy duty Reese. Neither factory hitch tore or cracked, they just twisted the pin box up toward the bumper and stayed that way. Tilted so far up, it did away with any weight transfer. With both hitches laying on the driveway it was easy to see why the factory hitch did not hold up.


You have the good info here Bob. That is why I went with a custom hitch that will not flex, crack or break.



willise

Canada

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Posted: 07/03/09 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I went to our local dealer who carries, Curt, Hidden Hitch, Reese, and Valley hitches. All the hitches he showed me have round tubes.

What brands have people been using to get into a square tube hitch? Or am I misreading the problem? Is the round tube type hitch the problem or is it just the general make of the OEM hitch?

Thanks

JJBrown

Whitby, Ontario, Canada

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Posted: 07/03/09 12:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Curt class IV just replaced my factory hitch. It is square bar not round.

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