david_42
Oregon
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Joined: 04/08/2005
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I purchased a leaker, which had been very expertly 'cleaned up' so I didn't spot the problems. Spent about 300 hours rebuilding the cab-over and fixing dryrot over a period of 5 years. I finally junked it. www.junkmycar.com, it's free.
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sammie14
California
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Joined: 08/17/2007
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To accurately find leaks, go to a repair place that can depressurize the inside. Then soap it and bubbles will appear where the leaks are.
I've had this done and it works well.
Good luck,
Sammie
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Gale Hawkins
Murray, KY
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Joined: 07/22/2007
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david_42 wrote:I purchased a leaker, which had been very expertly 'cleaned up' so I didn't spot the problems. Spent about 300 hours rebuilding the cab-over and fixing dryrot over a period of 5 years. I finally junked it. www.junkmycar.com, it's free.
David it seems that is about the only viable option if the structure damage as been going on for years. They take but they do not give. The ratio of hours of work to hours of sleep in the RV can get very high but in many cases can be a good hobby that keeps husbands out of the wifes' hair. 
Another plus now if I need a tool I just go to the MH and start digging.
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Roadfrog
Chilliwack, BC Canada
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Joined: 04/27/2001
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Anything can be fixed. Heck, I can't tell you how many times I've seen 1970's, 80's and even 90's vintage MH's, campers and TT's that have a heap of goo around the seams, windows and such that are still being enjoyed by families all the time. My current unit had the same leak as yours and it was fixed by the dealer for free, but would have cost 7-8 k to fix - but it was almost all labor (about a hundred hrs). AS was suggested, get a "Sealtech" test done and go from there.
Cheers
Chris
1999 Winnebago Itasca Spirit 29N
1988 Campion Allante 195
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jauguston
Bellingham, WA
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Joined: 07/03/2005
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Eternabond is your friend (-:
Jim, Sharon and Buddy the Yorkie
1999 Gulfstream Sun Voyager 31' ISB Cummins 275
AIMS 2500w inverter 4-6v GC batteries
4-Kyocera 130w solar panels SB3024iL MPPT controller
Pressure Pro TPMS
1987 Suzuki Samurai tintop Toad w/VW 1.6 turbo diesel power
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tonyandkaren
pennsylvania
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Joined: 05/15/2005
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I don't want to discourage you but you could be looking at something like this - http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/21535671.cfm
Or this-http://www.rvforsaleguide.com/trailer-repair/rv-trailer-repair.htm
This one isn't nearly as bad- http://www.ecalypso.com/2009_02_01_archive.html
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Rich8100
Saint louis, MO
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Joined: 08/05/2005
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I have an '82 Class C MH that developed a crack in the roof right on the edge. I globbed the roof with some self-leveling polyurethane caulk and cut a sheet of aluminum that embraced the crack and the roof, used some 3/4" Stainless steel screws and the patch has help for over 5 years. Glob some more caulk over the SS screws and you're good to go. A little "sweat equity" in repairing the RV makes you appreciate her even more.
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woodworker414
Crystal City,Mo.
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Joined: 01/02/2004
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Try the leaf blower trick, I had a leak on a TC, that drove me nuts, I finally hooked up the leaf blower and borrowed the smoke machine the my kids use at halloween, YEP, I found the leak behind the bracket that held the awning on. It looked like someone had taken a large flat bladed screwdriver and did the damage. I would never had found the leak without using the leaf blower, If you don't have access to a smoke machine, I know some people use soap and water with good results. Good Luck in the hunt, It can be done. Just takes time
Bill
KDØKLJ
2003 Gulfstream Cavaleir 29.5 V10 E450 normal bells & whistles
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DesertHawk
Las Cruces, New Mexico
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Joined: 06/06/2009
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What type of roof does it have?
Metal RV Roofs:
Metal roofs, usually aluminum, are found on many older motorhomes, travel trailers and fifthwheels. Regular cleaning and inspection are all that is generally required. I use regular automotive wash and wax, and clean our roof one or two times a year... depending on trees we've parked under, how long we stayed under them and what they dropped, or dripped, onto our roof. The birds that live in those trees make a difference also.
Black streaks down the sides of your rig are caused by run-off from the dirt, bird droppings, fallen leaves and other stuff that decays and is washed off the roof of your RV during light rains and heavy dew. Regular cleaning of your roof, especially just before the rainy season starts, will go a long way toward eliminating the cause of black streaks.
You may want to clean your RV's roof more often than three or four times a year if you regularly park under sap dripping trees, fruit trees, trees that attract a large bird population or places where harsh environmental fall-out may settle on your roof. If allowed to stay on your rig for an extended period of time these conditions may result in unremoveable stains.
Rubber Roofs:
If your motor home, travel trailer or fifthwheel was made in the last few years, chances are it has a rubber roof. It's not the natural latex rubber we normally think of though. It's a material called Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer (EPDM) which is specially made for roofing. EPDM rubber roofing membrane is made to last 20 years or longer and usually has a 10 to 12 year guarantee, depending on the brand.
EPDM manufacturers advise that rubber roof membranes do not require the use of any protective roof treatment or roof protector product. The only maintenance recommended is cleaning the roof four times a year.
If you have owned a rig with an EPDM roof for a few years, you've no doubt noticed that the roof surface is chalky. Manufacturers say not to worry, this is a normal process of age and, and that even after 10 years, only 10 percent of the material is lost due to chalking. Plenty of roof is left.
Regular cleaning will reduce chalk buildup and minimize white streaks on the sides of your RV. The correct cleaning product is of great importance for your EPDM rubber roof. Never use cleaners or conditioners containing petroleum solvents, harsh abrasives or citric based cleaners on your EPDM roof. Using such solvents will cause irreparable damage and will most likely void your warranty. If you are uncertain about what is in the product, don't use it. Of course each EPDM manufacturer recommends using their own brand of cleaner, but all approve the use of mild laundry detergent.
While EPDM rubber roofing does not need to be protected from ultra violet rays (UV ) and ozone, the manufacturers do approve 303 Aerospace Protectant as a safe way to resist staining and make future cleaning easier.
To reduce the expense, you may want to treat the whole roof once a year and do only the part of the roof that can be seen from the ground the rest of the time.
After the roof is clean and before you climb down, be sure to inspect all the roof seams, around vents, etc., to make sure the caulking is still in good condition. While you1re up there you might as well check the condition of all vent covers, the air conditioner cover and the TV/satellite antenna, etc.
Roofs
Q. I purchased an RV and am currently recoating the roof, and wanted ideas from others who own RV's what type of roof coating I should use. It does not appear to have any leaks, but they have sealed around all the pipes and so forth on the roof. I really want to reseal it to make it look more attractive, and also to make sure there will be no leaks. Just wanted to get some ideas on what the best product out there is to use for this?
A. On rubber roofs, apply an approved rubber roof treatment to revitalize the rubber surface and protect it from UV deterioration. If the surface has suffered abrasion or other damage, apply a specially formulated rubber roof topcoat to restore the surface. On metal or fiberglass roofs, apply an electrometric coating to seal, insulate and protect the roof surface. On any type of roof surface, if you have made repairs, have areas of water ponding, or if the roof surface is badly worn or damaged, apply a primer before the top coat for extra sealing and protection, and to help insure good adhesion of the top coat. A local RV dealer should be able to point you in the right direction. You may also do an online search. Recoating
Articles Your MotorHome Roof
RV Roof Care & Maintenance
How to Repair RV Roof
I had an old slide in cab-over, back in the early '80s with the metal roof, had a lot of leaks when we got it, I got some roof coating with pits of fiberglass in it and just painted it on, it worked, but the smell from it being wet for some years never got much better. I up graded to a almost new, '83 Travel Tailer in '86. It took almost 10 years to start getting a roof leak by the TV antenna. It had a metal roof as well. When I up graded to a C-class in '97 (a new '96 one), it had the rubber roof, had it 9 years without a problem. Never did any maintance on it, except washing it.
One reason I went moldered fiberglass, is the roof is moldered fiberglass. But they have rivets, and TV antennas added. We got a little drip last summer from the antenna site. I Just chalked around it with silicone, no problem since. Moldered fiberglass have very little wood to rot as well. Execpt the floors.
Never tried to find a leak in our C-class. Good luck.
Post Edit: the smell would be covered once we started cooking in the units. A box of unused coffee grounds keeps it smelling better. We saw someone doing this when we were looking for a C-class.
* This post was
edited 07/04/09 03:06pm by DesertHawk *
DesertHawk - Las Cruces, NM USA
2005 16' Scamp Molded Fiberglass Travel Trailer
Side Dinette, Front Shower & Head
2009 White Ford F-150 Reg. Cab
Long Bed with A.R.E. Molded Fiberglass Topper
Wheresoever you go, go with all your heart. -Confucius
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